How to Explore Florence like an Art History Major: Part Three – Art & Religion
Representations of Madonna, the Christ, and saints were common in Italian Renaissance Art. Though the Catholic church were a major patron of the arts during the period, many nobles, governments, and other wealthy individuals commissioned art that relate to religion. As Part Three of How to Explore Florence like an Art History Major, we explore the wonders of churches and basilicas in Florence to show how art and religion is strongly tied together in this city.
1. Basilica di Sante Croce
Although the façade of the Basilica di Sante Croce is not as majestic as the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, its simplicity makes it beautiful. The perfect symmetry, the engraved doors, the softness of the stone… but it is as you enter this basilica that you truly see its beauty. The moment I entered, I felt tiny compared to the grandness of the nave and the thick columns. Luckily a map is offered that lays out a self-guided tour to ensure that you see every inch of its beauty.
Along the right wall is the tomb of Michelangelo Buonarroti, a name synonymous with the Renaissance. It is a strange feeling knowing that I stood a few feet from one of the greatest artists who ever lived. This is a feeling I hope everyone takes a moment to experience, rather than passively look at it and take a few photos for Instagram. Sante Croce also contains other tombs; Galileo Galilei, Niccolò Machiavelli, Lorenzo Ghiberti and Dante Alighieri (Dante’s tomb is more of tribute. The Florentine was buried in Ravenna where he died because he was exiled from his native city. Outside of the basilica there is a statue dedicated to the poet.) In addition, the floors of the basilica are paved with tombs, some unfortunately more worn out than others.
Tomb of Galileo
Tomb of Michelangelo
Tomb of Dante
Ancient tombs,
worn out with time.
One statue to take note of is the one that looks oddly like the Statue of Liberty. It’s likely that the very famous New York monument derived from this one by Pio Fedi.
So many other incredible pieces of art exist in this basilica, but one that is of high importance not only to the history of art, but to the city of Florence, is Cimabue’s Crucifix. In 1966, the Arno River flooded and devastated many pieces of art within Sante Croce. 60% of the paint surface of this piece was lost. Despite restoration, it is still evident how devastating this flood was. The crucifix is both a symbol of suffering but also salvation, which makes the symbolism behind this particular crucifix even more profound: a crucifix that suffered the devastation of the flood, but was saved from the mud and waters by countless individuals.
2. Basilica di San Lorenzo
This church is one of the oldest churches in the city. The most noticeable thing from the outside is the unfinished façade that most people would probably not bother to admire. In 1515, Michelangelo won a contest to design the façade, but his plan never came to fruition. He ended up abandoning it because he was commissioned to start work on the Sistine Chapel. Another reason, probably the more accurate reason, was due to financial problems (Michelangelo’s intention was to use very expensive material).
Since this was the official church for the Medici family, it makes sense why the family is buried within the San Lorenzo complex. The Chapel of the Princes, or La Cappella dei Principi, is a must-see. The grandness and richness of this mausoleum will awe you the moment you step foot inside. The entirety is covered with pietra serena, marble, multicoloured granite and other precious materials. Every inch showcases the grandness of the Medici family, even after death.
It is surprisingly peaceful within this space, possibly due to the intense silence (one man coughed and it echoed for a while). Along the octagonal walls are six tombs belonging to the Grand Dukes. Each tomb includes the Medici coat of arms and the Grand Ducal crown resting on top of a cushion.
The highlight of this chapel is the cupola, which depicts scenes from the Old and New Testament. What makes these frescoes even more beautiful is the oculus in the centre, which floods light into the space. The light illuminates the scenes making them appear more alive, which is ironic since this space is a mausoleum. One fresco to pay attention to is the scene depicting the crucifixion of Christ. The scene shows a beam of light that falls onto Jesus. What makes it so beautiful is that this beam doesn’t appear to be painted on, but as though it is coming from the oculus. The best point to see this from is to stand directly across the altar, on the opposite side of the octagonal space.
3. Orsanmichele
Orsanmichele is an underrated place. While everyone wants to see the big museums, this church and museum has an incredible about of history and artistic value that demands to be seen (and it’s free to visit). What was once a granary became a place of devotion due to the miracles that occurred accredited to the image of the Madonna that existed on one of the columns. On the main floor is the church, where an image of the Madonna delle Grazie (which replaced the original one after a fire) is displayed in an intricately carved tabernacle.
This church is small, but not at all simple. It seems as though every inch is decorated and adorned with frescoes. The next floor is the museum. The sculptures that are seen here are the original ones that once stood in the tabernacles on the outside of the building (today, copies stand in their place). Each of these sculptures represents a major guild of Florence such as the Bankers, the Physicians and Apothecaries, the Cobblers, the Armourers and Swordmakers, etc. Each guild commissioned an artist to sculpt their patron saint. These artists included Donatello, Ghiberti, Nanni di Banco and Verrocchio. Compared to the copies outside, you can get basically have an up-close view of these pieces. Since most of the pieces were sculpted by different artists, each sculpture has its own unique style. The details are beautiful; the folds in the drapery, the piercing eyes, the beards, the hands, the incredibly stylish gladiator sandals…Finally, on the uppermost floor you will be able to see a panoramic view of the city. Although there are better views from other buildings, this is still wonderful to experience, especially if you are short on funds.
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ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTOR
Elizabeth Pandza
Hi, I’m Elizabeth! I was born and raised in Toronto, Canada (in a very Polish household, I might add). I grew up with a love for history, art, culture, and languages; a love that has made me desire to see every inch of this planet. When I’m not travelling or dreaming of travelling, I am usually painting, reading Harry Potter, watching Friends and the Office, or cuddling with my ginger cat/daughter Misia.