How to Explore Florence like an Art History Major: Part One – Complex of Santa Maria del Fiore
Florence Syndrome: a condition where the emotions go into overdrive; people feel as though they can’t breath, their heart rate increases, they may become dizzy, faint and even hallucinate.
Every inch of Florence feeds your senses. Musicians play on the street, the odour of leather wafts from the many shops, the taste of pizza, but the art…the art is what truly feeds you. According to UNESCO statistics, 60% of the most important pieces of art in the world are in Italy, with about half in Florence. I do not exaggerate when I say that the amount of art and beauty that exists in this city is never-ending. Every corner you turn, you see something that stops you in your tracks, with the vast amount of beauty and emotionally inducing art as the prime causes.
I do not hope for anyone to hallucinate while looking at art, but I do hope that people experience an internal change when standing before the masterpieces in this city. Using my art history knowledge ingrained in my head (thanks university professors), I’ve created a three-part guide that may provide you with new insight or a new way to look at the art in the magical city of Florence, starting with the Complex of Santa Maria del Fiore.
While in Florence, I made it my goal to walk past this complex every day, sometimes a few times a day. I stood before it, ate gelato before it, I even made a sketch of it (some tourists literally had no shame in shoving their cameras in my face. I guess I’ll be in a few family albums!). The complex consists of a few parts: the cathedral, the dome, the crypt, the baptistery, and the bell tower. I highly recommend purchasing a ticket online so that you can see everything and organize your day (some parts close earlier than others).
1. La Cattedrale
di Santa Maria del Fiore
It does not matter how many times you stand before the façade of this cathedral, or even for however long, you will never be able to absorb every detail (a very depressing thought for me). The amount of intricate detail almost causes sensory overload. You don’t know where to look first; your eyes go into spasm trying to jump from one area to another. I had to continuously tell myself as I was becoming anxious, “It’s ok, you won’t be able to see every detail. Just relax.” Something I did enjoy noticing is how the façade changes during different times of the day. When the sun hits it, the façade can appear more white, sometimes more pink, and sometimes golden (around sunset, notice how the baptistry casts a beautiful shadow on it). It’s even beautiful in the rain.
2. Cupola del Brunelleschi (Il Duomo)
The highlight of this complex is the cupola. This is one of the areas that requires a booking ahead of time (you can do it on the website). I planned my day to see this first, so that I wouldn’t feel rushed to make my time slot while visiting the other places. The entry to the climb (yes, you have to climb…463 steps. Bring water…or even a CPR kit) is on the left side of the façade. Brunelleschi won a contest to build this dome and it is an extraordinary feat of architectural engineering. The issue facing the architect was how to build a dome that spanned such a great space. The solution was to use a double shell with a space between it (this is actually where you will be during your climb). Brunelleschi used a herringbone pattern with bricks to make the structure more solid. When you’re walking up the steps, notice the bricks and hopefully you will feel the amazement that I felt (and maybe the stitch in your side) at seeing this wonder up close and the feeling of being able to walk the same steps that Brunelleschi walked. When you finally reach the top, you will see the inner shell of the dome. The beauty of the frescoes by Giorgio Vasari will stun you.
The depiction of the Last Judgement is full of detail and stunning, vibrant colours. The area where you will walk is basically a very narrow passage. You can’t exactly stop to take pictures because otherwise you will hold up the line. So instead, put your camera down and just admire the beauty as you walk around (you’ll be able to see the frescoes again from within the cathedral). After climbing a few more stairs, you will reach the very peak of the cupola. This is where you will be able to see a beautiful panoramic view of Florence (if you are afraid of heights, be careful. The rails on the side are not that high). From this view you can see so many of the other famous structures that I mention in this guide, as well as the rolling hills of Tuscany with the villas spread out over the land.
3. Crypt of Santa Reparata
From 1965-73, archaeologists discovered the remains of the Basilica of Santa Reparata (a whole other structure that the present cathedral is built on). In order to see these remains, there is a staircase in the cathedral that will lead you to it (you need to have a ticket to see this, while for just the cathedral you don’t). It is amazing to see how history over centuries becomes intertwined.
4. Il Battistero di San Giovanni
Across from the cathedral is the baptistry, one of the oldest churches in Florence. It is the site of the baptism of Dante Alighieri and members of the Medici family. The most beautiful aspect of the baptistry is the ceiling. The golden ceiling mosaics are so mesmerizing that it is hard to look away. On the outside of the structure are three sets of bronze doors. The south door is the oldest set by the artist Andrea Pisano, which depicts the life of St. John the Baptist and Christian virtues (the original of these doors is in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. With your ticket you have access to this museum, which I suggest to see the next day). The northern doors depict scenes from the New Testament and the originals are also in the museum. The East doors, the most incredible doors, are called the Gates of Paradise. The story behind these doors is that a contest was held between the artists, including Ghiberti and Brunelleschi. The aim was to design a quatrefoil panel depicting The Binding of Isaac from the Bible. In the end, Ghiberti won. The original panels by these two artists are in the Bargello.
5. Il Campanile di Giotto
Considered to be one of the most beautiful bell towers in Italy, this structure like the duomo allows you to climb up to the very top (if you’re claustrophobic, the climb may not be for you as it’s very narrow). For some reason this climb felt more difficult, so again, bring water. Everyone was panting very loudly and stopping to rest, so if you need to, don’t feel bad about doing so. As you climb, you will reach various levels (where you can further rest). On one level is the Apostolic Bell. It is over 600 years old and weighs 1,268 kilograms. Unfortunately it endured a lot of abuse from people engraving into it or using markers (why people? why?). It was restored and brought back to life and it is now on display. There are other bells inside that you can see if you look up from the centre. These bells are rung 6 times a day (honestly, it is the most beautiful sound). They ring at 9am, 11:30am, noon. The other three bells ring one hour before sunset, at sunset, and one hour after sunset (these times change throughout the year). The bells that are rung at 11:30am are the only ones that do so in Florence. It begun with Brunelleschi, who used it as a signal to his workers. At the very top of the bell tower, you will be able to see another panoramic view, this time it will include the duomo. It’s a view you won’t tire of.
Stay tuned for Part Two of How to Explore Florence like an Art History Major! It's going to be about the beautiful architecture for the nobles. Medicis, which is kind of like the Kardashians of Florence during the era - if the Kardashian family were a banking and political dynasty that donated a lot to art and sparked rivalries, played a key role in shaping how Florence is like today.
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About the Contributor
Elizabeth Pandza
Hi, I’m Elizabeth! I was born and raised in Toronto, Canada (in a very Polish household, I might add). I grew up with a love for history, art, culture, and languages; a love that has made me desire to see every inch of this planet. When I’m not travelling or dreaming of travelling, I am usually painting, reading Harry Potter, watching Friends and the Office, or cuddling with my ginger cat/daughter Misia.